When we are in Paris, we generally eat out once a day, most often sometime in the early to mid afternoon.
Breakfast is fresh croissants purchased from our local boulangerie and coffee brewed in a French Press, supplemented with orange juice and sometimes yogurt.
Dinner is most often fresh french bread, cheese, a salad and ham, sausage or paté, all accompanied by a nice red wine purchased from a wine store or the nearby mini-super market.
Over the years, we have eaten at some of the finest restaurants in the city, though there are some that we have yet to try. Taillevent comes to mind. One memorable meal, both for the location and the company, was our dinner with Paul and Pam at Le Grand Véfour, the only Michelin three-star restaurant in which I have ever eaten.
When I was teaching in Paris in July of 2005, I spent a ridiculous amount on a superb multi-course dinner with matching wines at l'Astrance, then a relatively new restaurant recommended by our friend, Paul. In December 2007, Charles and I joined Paul and his wife, Pam, to enjoy a lunch together at the same restaurant. Both Pam and Paul are passionate about good food and wine. Watching Paul identify wines presented with each of the many courses in the prix fixe meal was impressive. This man doesn't just talk the talk when it comes to wine. The fact that I remember our lunch with such pleasure is a testament to the excellent food and the wonderful company. I arrived at the restaurant distraught because my beloved Canon 20D had broken when it slid off of my shoulder at the Nation métro stop on our way to the restaurant.
Another memorable four-hour lunch was spent with Marie and Gérard at Le Jules Verne, perhaps 4 or 5 years ago. Located on the second stage of the Eiffel Tower, it was then a Michelin one-star restaurant. I remember that Charles and Gérard ordered snail soup as their first course. To me it looked like a thick, gray glop but to them it was ambrosia. Different strokes. By 4 pm. the restaurant was empty of all but the four of us. Looking over the city bathed in late afternoon light, Charles and I called our son, Nick,in Tallahassee. What a kick!! Before we left, we were invited to visit the kitchen and chat with the chef, Alain Reix. Great fun. The restaurant recently underwent renovation and is now the domain of master chef Alain Ducasse. One of these days we may return.
Alas, however, with the devaluation of the dollar against the Euro and the "economic crisis," we find ourselves concentrating on finding pleasant places to eat where the final bill is less - how shall I put it? - eye popping.
Make no mistake. Paris is not a city in which you can dine cheaply unless you wish to cook your own, buy frozen dinners at Picard (NOT my choice), hit a MacDo, try the Belgian fast food chain, Quick, buy a sandwich or crepe on the street (great fun on a beautiful day when you want to eat on a quai by the Seine), or indulge in takeaway (something we have yet to try). Still, we have been trending toward places that provide good qualité/prix, in ambiance, service and food.
Our old staples served us well this trip: La Contrescarpe, Les Philosophes, Les Petits Machons (see a 2006 review), Le Factorie St. Amour (previously Le St. Amour) on the corner of le Boulevard Ménilmontant and the Avenue Gambetta (near a side entrance to Père Lachaise cemetery), and Chartier (See it on Youtube.) We returned to our old favorite, Balzar, had a late afternoon snack and drinks in the bar area of the elegant Le Train Bleu in the Gare du Lyon, and ate at Au Bourguignon du Maris, a wonderful restaurant a block from the St. Paul métro originally recommended to us by Paul.
This trip we added a new one to our list of pleasant places to enjoy a reasonably priced meal - one we wouldn't have tried if Klaus and Marlene hadn't discovered it.
EPSILON, located at 66 Avenue des Gobelins is a short walk from the métro at Place de l'Italie. Although the name suggests that it is a Greek restaurant, we found the menu featured many traditionally French dinner offerings. For 24 Euros you can enjoy a delicious 3 course dinner. (A 2 course dinner is offered for 17 euros.) Marlene thoroughly enjoyed a filet mignon as her main course and Charles had a perfectly cooked whole sole. Of course he had to remove the bones himself, but that only added to his enjoyment.
(Charles learned how to remove the bones in a whole fish in the late 1980's watching the waiters deftly tackle tong [Dover sole], the signature dish at Amsterdam's famous Oesterbar near the Leidseplein, which reminds me how, in many ways, our lives have been written in restaurant adventures.)
We also tried two somewhat more expensive restaurants that were new to us:
Le Dome du Marais - Very elegant restaurant in the Marais (much more elegant than I had anticipated - both in decor and in mid-day menu choices) with an interesting history and classy red and gold octagonal dining room. The food was excellent and the service attentive without being overpowering. The price is not bad if you choose one of the available prix fixe menus. The day after we ate there, I read in the paper that it had been selected as the best restaurant in the 4th in a survey that picked the best restaurant in each arrondissement. Wish I could remember more about the survey.
Le Procope - Said to be the oldest restaurant in Paris, it is located in the 6th Arrondissement near the Odéon métro. We spent an enjoyable evening there with Ginger and Foster. The service was very friendly and relaxed. The food was fine. The decor is rich in gold tones. Benjamin Franklin ate there (not to mention many of the main players in the French Revolution). We have one friend who recommends it highly and another who doesn't. What I liked best, though, was the wonderful little cobblestone street that runs for about a block behind the restaurant.
Finally, while I don't recall the names of all of the restaurants we have enjoyed with her, we can always count on having delicious lunch with our friend Lori, who works for the Ministry of Culture. She chooses a cozy restaurant within a block or two of the Ministry and we have never had a bad experience. If you are in the area of the Louvre or the Palais Royale, check for the places along the Rue St Honoré (heading away from the Place de la Concorde) and the nearby cross streets. If they are full of businessmen and women, you know that if you order a prix fixe menu, you will eat well at a reasonable price. Of course, finding a table might be a problem!